There are several things to consider when we speak about modern wristwatches and water resistance is one of them. The Swiss Replica Rolex offer quality features with delicate designs and affordable prices. Remember that there are no “waterproof” watches available as it implies water will not enter into timepiece under any circumstances. So water resistance is right term for such type of watches. The history of water resistance waters started from the 1920s, but soon seriously water resistance diving timepieces came out on the stage. Nowadays dive watches are without any debate the most famous type of sports watches not because of they are used for a specific purpose but also due to their high durability, style, and utilitarian valve.
Whether you spend few hundred or thousand dollars for a wristwatch, one expects comfort, reliability, and accuracy. It took serious craftsmanship and time to transform a fragile piece of art to a professional instrument that can work from office use to the depths of oceans and height of mountains. In this article, we are looking back to the history of dive watches with the challenges they faced to conquer, design elements and most significant historical models. The first ever men’s wristwatch was created from pocket watches with lugs soldered onto their cases. In the late 1800s and World War l, soldiers sought an easier, faster and hands-free time way to tell the time during combat. Interestingly, wristwatches were used by women as a form of jewelry that was handled with excessive care. Men were not interested in such type of timepieces. The main problem was their poor reliability. They were prone to breaking because they were exposed to shocks, temperature and humidity changes when used on the wrist rather than inside the pockets of vests and coats.
The wristwatches would never gain fame unless such issues were solved. Water, dust, and humidity were the primary sources of the problems. All these easily entered into the movements via gaps around the crown and in between the improperly machined and manufactured case elements. First of all, manufacturing and assembling issues had to be solved if watches to be worn in the wrist and to expose them to different conditions. It was the pioneering ideas of several engineers and increasing competition between the major companies which led to the creation of some of the most significant technological developments. Over the past years, great minds worked to ultimately find revolutionary solutions that expelled the old ideas of the past. They manufactured new designs that were going to keep watches in accurate running state throughout the centuries and designs that are still reliable today.
The first step was to understand the source of problems and then to find possible solutions to remove them out permanently. The cases of pocket watches of the 20th century were not worked with high resistance and reliability. They are highly praised, and valued items and also they spent less time in nature elements are compared to wristwatches did and do nowadays. The pocket watch cases were poorly sealed around the crown that they allowed serious dust and humidity to enter into the case and also the movement. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of one of the most popular brands today, was the first man who devoted his attention to creating the first waterproof wristwatch. The addition of extra external cases was one of the easiest solutions that would hermetically seal the case of the watch. Rolex Hermetic or Submarine from 1922 was the perfect example of this (remember Rolex Submariner is a different watch from three decades later). Hermetic watch offered a small round cased watch with a bulky extra case and a lid that screwed down onto it. It functioned like a jar where you screwed it down once, and the jar is sealed decently. It made sense because there was not adequately created sealing systems for the crown and the lid covered it too. Now there was a problem to remove the lid to rewound hand-wound movement or to set the time and then put on again. From the beginning, it was clear that oversized or bulky watch cases had not future. The more durable and practical solution was required, and there was no other way but to fuse all waterproofing into the case. A Genevan master case manufacturer named Francois Borgel had filed two patents in 1891 and 1903, for two slightly distinct watch cases that had threaded parts. A great upside of the design was that external case was eliminated. The 1903 patent was more advanced comprising a threaded ring that would go with the bezel and movement. A superior seal resulted without using an oversized external cover.
There was a prominent leap forward and prime manufacturers such as Longines and IWC have used Borgel’s case for their various watches. The crown sealing was another big problem that was still unsolved. There was still a way for humidity and dust to enter into the movement but with slower rate due to the threaded case design. Paul Perregaux and Georges Perret have the credit for the original idea of the waterproof crown. In 1925, they applied for a patent for a screw crown. These two watch manufacturer’s design also showed various imperfections. However, it was Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf who observed the potential in this invention. A wise watchmaker knew that coupling this idea with the threaded case can lead to creating the first ever waterproof watch. In 1926-1927, he quickly moved to purchase the Swiss rights from inventors and immediately applied for the patent in the UK, US, and Germany. The relocation of the deal from outside into the crown tube was one of the prominent improvements and also enhanced its durability. Rolex combined the threaded case with its improved crown design in a new model that was the first reliable and durable waterproof watch known as the “Oyster” which was a proud achievement. In 1927, Wilsdorf found an ideal opportunity to prove the abilities of this wristwatch, and he was very quickly in action. A Young British secretary and long distance swimmer named Mercedes Gleitze accepted the challenge for the second time to swim across the English Channel. Mercedes swam across the channel before and were aiming to top other women who covered the same distance around 13 hours and Gleitze in 15 hours. It got serious media attention and Wilsdorf was looking for such publicity. Wilsdorf made an agreement with Gleitze to wear Oyster on a necklace in her vindication swim. After few days the story of Gleitze and her watch was discussed on the Daily Mail’s first page and brought the proof of first waterproof watch to the general public. Wilsdorf already had arranged with retailers to showcase Oyster in their windows to made a more lasting impression but in a fish tank full of water. In short, thanks to the remarkable developments and the wise marketing moves of the Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf that first waterproof watch debuted on the stage of horology.
In 1930s many other brands aimed to get their share from this new popular market segment. Omega and Cartier were two most notable brands to make two interesting interpretation of waterproof watch. Cartier was known as the brand for the Kings, world’s elite and monarchy in general. In 1932 Cartier received an order from the Pasha of Marrakech for a waterproof watch which he could wear during his swimming routine. Cartier made a special watch equipped with a round waterproof case and little screw-on cap. From 1943 to present the watch is popular as Pasha de Cartier. This iconic timepiece is one of the first examples of waterproof watches. In mid-twenties, diving, an activity devoted to military, scientific and adventure related cases begun to become rapidly popular and brought about the special breathing apparatus made by Yves Le Prieur in 1926 and then in 1933. The reasons behind these diving instrument inventions were to make diving easier, minimum dangerous and allow swimmers to discover the greater depths of water. After few years Omega appeared on the picture to make the waterproof watch more popular. Rolex Oyster and the Pasha de Cartier worked rather well to keep out dust, moister and very small amount of water out of the watch case. However, there was a great increase in demand of deep divers. In 1932 Omega Marine was introduced to tackle greater challenges and work with divers. Omega had no other choice but to go with Rolex’s invented external case it. Marine proved its effectiveness like its name and became the first diving watch of the world (the first watch to complete serious deep dives).
The two-part case was the unique feature that made Marine capable which had top and bottom pieces connected to its straps. Synthetic sapphire was used for the first time in Omega Marine which was relatively reliable to other materials used at that time. Seal leather strap completed the package which was extremely water resistant to salt water according to Omega. Omega was inspired by the marketing success of Rolex, and they put their watch to series of challenges which were considered difficult previously. In 1936, two Marine watches spent time in hot water up to 85 Celsius and then were submerged in the 5 degree Celsius cold water with a depth of 70 meters in Lake Geneva for half an hour. When watches were taken out, the watches were working perfectly with no traces of water inside.
Omega introduced Marine Standard in 1939 after three years of successful tests. It was the modified version of the Marine from 1932. To reduce the manufacturing cost, the case was made less complex, but the original rectangular shape was maintained. The sapphire crystal was used from below to bezel on the very first series of Marine Standards. Looking back to the previous generation of waterproof watches, the big companies developed their answers to the problems such as sealing the gaps between the case, crown, and the bezel. Let’s see the transition of the watch and exactly led to the diving watch we know today.
A diving watch is the pinnacle of modern watch making in many ways. The watches used on the Moon, exceed the sound speed but resisting the immense pressure that occurs only at the deepest point of planet earth. It is one of the bright examples of how watches creped out of from vest pockets and onto wrists to become instruments capable of performing in countless scientific dives and special military actions. Rolex Oyster was truly the first properly waterproof watch verified by Gleitze swimming adventure and the time spent on the watch in fish tanks full of water. However, she wore the watch on a necklace rather than on her wrist, and the watch was not subjected to the brutal forces of splashing into the water with arms motion. The aqua-lung from Emile Gagnan was the first open circuit breathing apparatus that helped divers to reach up to the depths of 180 feet (60 meters) without any direct connection with the surface. The most important result was that it aided rapid developments in the fields of scientific, professional and hobby diving and making them easily available around the world. After World War ll, warfare and popularity of diving more durable and refined accessories were in demand, items like compasses, depth meters and above all, wristwatches. In different ways, many brands claim to be the first in this field.
The main changes were still there with proper sealing of crown and the case and making the watch more readable when used under water. Florentine Officine Panerai was one of the first and certainly the most remarkable brands. Panerai supplied distributed the Regia Marina with apparatus designed especially for them that included watches, depth meters, and other gear. Panerai combined with Rolex who supplied movements and cases to the brand. The Italian marines were in need of watch that could be used during combats and also underwater missions. The triple-combination of Rolex, Panerai, and the Italian marines made some significant and interesting developments in both legibility and water resistance.
Radium was another exceptional material invented by Pierre and Maria Curie in 1898. In 1915, Panerai patented the method that permitted the covering dials and hand of watches with this famous luminescent material. Panerai generated a mixture of the mesothelium, radium bromide, and phosphorous zinc sulfide all contained in glass tubes. This was the way in which material could be applied and would also glow constantly and heavily. The large prominent text of Radiomir on Panerai watch dials stood for this fabulous material. It was revealed after decades that it had various seriously dangerous properties: in the making, primarily women painted the dials and hand with Radium. These women didn’t know anything about the intense danger of this material. In the 50s, the Radium was officially banned but remained in use of watch repairmen and also watches manufactured for military use.
The creating of special “bridge” was another major advancement towards waterproofing of early Panerai watches which then became the brand’s trademark element. Though it was debuted in 1943 Panerai used it much latterly in 1956. It was designed to confine the crown in a fixed position and to ensure the strong and constant bond between the crown seals. It also allowed the crown to wind the movement even in secured position safely. Due to such advancements, the watch water resistance slowly reached from 60 to 80 meter and even to 200 meters. Panerai led the way in improved legibility and water resistance to the diving watches we have today.
Bob Maloubier was the first man that sketched the drawing of the wristwatch which he and his team considered to be the perfect for their needs and started looking for Watch Company to build it for them. After refusing many, they suddenly met Blancpain, an unknown Swiss watch maker that realized Bob’s plan and created an iconic watch know known as Fifty Fathoms. The first real diving watch was not Rolex Submariner but Fifty Fathoms from 1953. The watch has preceded the modern ISO 6425 standard which defines the attribute of the modern diver’s watch. It was FF that initially comprised almost all technical solutions that enabled watches to be used for hobby and professional dives alike. French elite frogmen were looking for such type of watch with perfect diver’s time measurement, ideal legibility under all circumstances and a solid construction to ensure extraordinary reliability. In most cases, the problem was not achieving any one of the factors mentioned above but to achieve all of them at once. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms had all these features to fulfill the needs of Bob Maloubier and his team.
The concept of the rotating bezel is familiar nowadays, but Fifty Fathoms included it for the first time. Fifty Fathoms has been produced in different variants over the years but “no rad” is the most interesting piece of all. The prominent No Radiation symbol is present at the 6 o’clock position of the dial. Blancpain used this No Radiation emblem to attract non-military buyers and ensure them that there is not the radioactive material used in it. The first full life cycle of FF lasted for 27 years, and the brand was temporarily shut down in 1980. Jean-Claude Biver purchased it three years later and restarted the company. In 1997 they reconstructed the Fifty Fathoms and modified into an extraordinary luxury diver.
In 1954, Rolex introduced a wristwatch which is the most popular and imitated timepiece ever: the Rolex Submariner. The model has been developed in some watches over the years; it has reversed its highly constructed dial and bezel with beautiful and unique shaped three linked stainless tell bracelet. Rolex Deep Sea defeated the incredible depths of the deepest points of planet earth. In 1960, the story of this legendary watch began in 1960. On 23rd January 1960 Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh were the first to explore the deepest point on Earth: Mariana-trench bottom about 35,800 feet. Deep Sea Special was attached outside the special submersible. After conquering the deepest point, the experiments were not terminated. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) the French Commercial diving firm and U.S Navy had been working together on projects to develop ways to human life on the floor of the ocean. The COMEX divers working at deep depths were breathing a mixture of helium and oxygen which allows them to stay for a maximum time without coming up to the surface to decompress (remember we are talking about several days). Helium created a problem here due to its smallest size it could infiltrate the most tightly sealed water case and build up internally. AS the divers headed to the surface, the helium gas inside the watches expanded to increase the pressure inside the watch and finding a way out with increasing power. Two firms Rolex and Doxa both worked quickly to tackle this challenge.
However, it is not officially confirmed that both these companies co-operated to develop the solution. Rolex and Doxa both claimed their watches to be equipped for the first time with the best solution to the problem which is known as “helium release valve.” The one-way valve set at the 9 o’clock position of the watch case allowing helium gas to escape from the valve leaving the crystal and all components complete. Though most people still credit the gas valve invention to Rolex in 1969, it was Doxa who patented the design. The achievements of Doxa are mostly disregarded as the brand went under in the 1970s. The very first watch was released by Doxa with helium release valve in 1969 called the Sub 300T Conquistador. The watch featured a unique uni-directional with HRV and no-decompression table. It was developed in collaboration with US Divers company and used to help divers determine the longest time spend in the water. The professional divers liked it so much the United States Divers Company started marketing the orange dial Doxa as “The US Divers Doxa.”
After 52 years on 26th March 2012, the popular director James Cameron traveled to visit the earth’s deepest point. Rolex was late to the party because they joined the initiative only five weeks before the adventure. They had very time to design, test and create another modern watch to accompany Cameron and to withstand the immense challenging conditions. A modern version of Deepsea was released after four years of its release. The Deepsea Challenge was equipped with 1.5 centimeters thick sapphire crystal fitted to 51.4 mm wide and 28.5 mm thick case. The watch offered a 12000 meters water resistance. The watch was strapped to the robotic arm of the Deepsea Challenger, and at a depth of 10,908 meters, the watch spends more than three hours perfectly. Now we are familiar with extreme depths, so let’s finish this article with more widely available dive wristwatches available today. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with ISO 6425 standard defining the true diving watch. Produced in 1969, the watch defines a dive watch designed to withstand diving in water at 100m depth. It also requires features like remaining legible in the dark, an indication of time, watch running indication, setting time and end-of-life indication in battery powered case.
Compare the tests of waterproof watches and dive watches to understand it in the best way. Everyday watches are immersed for one hour at a depth of 10 centimeters and dive watches at a depth of 20 centimeters for fifty hours. The test is performed to check the quality of seals. Normal watches are tested for once whereas dive watches are tested both before and after the immersion test for consideration because watches are heated up to 45 degree Celsius along with a drop of water is placed on a watch crystal. After a minute or so, the drop of water is removed and the timepiece as to remain dry from inside which means that if consideration is visible on the inner side of the crystal, then the watch has failed the test. Overpressure test is performed after this in which normal watches are exposed to their rated pressure for ten minutes whereas dive watch is immersed into water and then within one minute are subjected to 125% of its subjected pressure and be held under such pressure for almost two hours. The watch is not removed after two hours but held at 0.3 bars for one more hour. No consideration or intrusion of water is acceptable in this test too. The crown and other setting devices also go through same over-pressure tests separately for one ten minutes only. At last, the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields is tested in which watch is exposed to 3 expositions to direct current magnetic field of 4,800 A/m. The watch has to keep accuracy for 30 seconds as measured by the test. There are many notable dive watches available that are enjoying an iconic status rightfully. Whether you use it in aboveground life or expose them to challenging depths, the dive watches always serve you as most stylish and reliable companion.
Whether you spend few hundred or thousand dollars for a wristwatch, one expects comfort, reliability, and accuracy. It took serious craftsmanship and time to transform a fragile piece of art to a professional instrument that can work from office use to the depths of oceans and height of mountains. In this article, we are looking back to the history of dive watches with the challenges they faced to conquer, design elements and most significant historical models. The first ever men’s wristwatch was created from pocket watches with lugs soldered onto their cases. In the late 1800s and World War l, soldiers sought an easier, faster and hands-free time way to tell the time during combat. Interestingly, wristwatches were used by women as a form of jewelry that was handled with excessive care. Men were not interested in such type of timepieces. The main problem was their poor reliability. They were prone to breaking because they were exposed to shocks, temperature and humidity changes when used on the wrist rather than inside the pockets of vests and coats.
The wristwatches would never gain fame unless such issues were solved. Water, dust, and humidity were the primary sources of the problems. All these easily entered into the movements via gaps around the crown and in between the improperly machined and manufactured case elements. First of all, manufacturing and assembling issues had to be solved if watches to be worn in the wrist and to expose them to different conditions. It was the pioneering ideas of several engineers and increasing competition between the major companies which led to the creation of some of the most significant technological developments. Over the past years, great minds worked to ultimately find revolutionary solutions that expelled the old ideas of the past. They manufactured new designs that were going to keep watches in accurate running state throughout the centuries and designs that are still reliable today.
The first step was to understand the source of problems and then to find possible solutions to remove them out permanently. The cases of pocket watches of the 20th century were not worked with high resistance and reliability. They are highly praised, and valued items and also they spent less time in nature elements are compared to wristwatches did and do nowadays. The pocket watch cases were poorly sealed around the crown that they allowed serious dust and humidity to enter into the case and also the movement. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of one of the most popular brands today, was the first man who devoted his attention to creating the first waterproof wristwatch. The addition of extra external cases was one of the easiest solutions that would hermetically seal the case of the watch. Rolex Hermetic or Submarine from 1922 was the perfect example of this (remember Rolex Submariner is a different watch from three decades later). Hermetic watch offered a small round cased watch with a bulky extra case and a lid that screwed down onto it. It functioned like a jar where you screwed it down once, and the jar is sealed decently. It made sense because there was not adequately created sealing systems for the crown and the lid covered it too. Now there was a problem to remove the lid to rewound hand-wound movement or to set the time and then put on again. From the beginning, it was clear that oversized or bulky watch cases had not future. The more durable and practical solution was required, and there was no other way but to fuse all waterproofing into the case. A Genevan master case manufacturer named Francois Borgel had filed two patents in 1891 and 1903, for two slightly distinct watch cases that had threaded parts. A great upside of the design was that external case was eliminated. The 1903 patent was more advanced comprising a threaded ring that would go with the bezel and movement. A superior seal resulted without using an oversized external cover.
There was a prominent leap forward and prime manufacturers such as Longines and IWC have used Borgel’s case for their various watches. The crown sealing was another big problem that was still unsolved. There was still a way for humidity and dust to enter into the movement but with slower rate due to the threaded case design. Paul Perregaux and Georges Perret have the credit for the original idea of the waterproof crown. In 1925, they applied for a patent for a screw crown. These two watch manufacturer’s design also showed various imperfections. However, it was Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf who observed the potential in this invention. A wise watchmaker knew that coupling this idea with the threaded case can lead to creating the first ever waterproof watch. In 1926-1927, he quickly moved to purchase the Swiss rights from inventors and immediately applied for the patent in the UK, US, and Germany. The relocation of the deal from outside into the crown tube was one of the prominent improvements and also enhanced its durability. Rolex combined the threaded case with its improved crown design in a new model that was the first reliable and durable waterproof watch known as the “Oyster” which was a proud achievement. In 1927, Wilsdorf found an ideal opportunity to prove the abilities of this wristwatch, and he was very quickly in action. A Young British secretary and long distance swimmer named Mercedes Gleitze accepted the challenge for the second time to swim across the English Channel. Mercedes swam across the channel before and were aiming to top other women who covered the same distance around 13 hours and Gleitze in 15 hours. It got serious media attention and Wilsdorf was looking for such publicity. Wilsdorf made an agreement with Gleitze to wear Oyster on a necklace in her vindication swim. After few days the story of Gleitze and her watch was discussed on the Daily Mail’s first page and brought the proof of first waterproof watch to the general public. Wilsdorf already had arranged with retailers to showcase Oyster in their windows to made a more lasting impression but in a fish tank full of water. In short, thanks to the remarkable developments and the wise marketing moves of the Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf that first waterproof watch debuted on the stage of horology.
In 1930s many other brands aimed to get their share from this new popular market segment. Omega and Cartier were two most notable brands to make two interesting interpretation of waterproof watch. Cartier was known as the brand for the Kings, world’s elite and monarchy in general. In 1932 Cartier received an order from the Pasha of Marrakech for a waterproof watch which he could wear during his swimming routine. Cartier made a special watch equipped with a round waterproof case and little screw-on cap. From 1943 to present the watch is popular as Pasha de Cartier. This iconic timepiece is one of the first examples of waterproof watches. In mid-twenties, diving, an activity devoted to military, scientific and adventure related cases begun to become rapidly popular and brought about the special breathing apparatus made by Yves Le Prieur in 1926 and then in 1933. The reasons behind these diving instrument inventions were to make diving easier, minimum dangerous and allow swimmers to discover the greater depths of water. After few years Omega appeared on the picture to make the waterproof watch more popular. Rolex Oyster and the Pasha de Cartier worked rather well to keep out dust, moister and very small amount of water out of the watch case. However, there was a great increase in demand of deep divers. In 1932 Omega Marine was introduced to tackle greater challenges and work with divers. Omega had no other choice but to go with Rolex’s invented external case it. Marine proved its effectiveness like its name and became the first diving watch of the world (the first watch to complete serious deep dives).
The two-part case was the unique feature that made Marine capable which had top and bottom pieces connected to its straps. Synthetic sapphire was used for the first time in Omega Marine which was relatively reliable to other materials used at that time. Seal leather strap completed the package which was extremely water resistant to salt water according to Omega. Omega was inspired by the marketing success of Rolex, and they put their watch to series of challenges which were considered difficult previously. In 1936, two Marine watches spent time in hot water up to 85 Celsius and then were submerged in the 5 degree Celsius cold water with a depth of 70 meters in Lake Geneva for half an hour. When watches were taken out, the watches were working perfectly with no traces of water inside.
Omega introduced Marine Standard in 1939 after three years of successful tests. It was the modified version of the Marine from 1932. To reduce the manufacturing cost, the case was made less complex, but the original rectangular shape was maintained. The sapphire crystal was used from below to bezel on the very first series of Marine Standards. Looking back to the previous generation of waterproof watches, the big companies developed their answers to the problems such as sealing the gaps between the case, crown, and the bezel. Let’s see the transition of the watch and exactly led to the diving watch we know today.
A diving watch is the pinnacle of modern watch making in many ways. The watches used on the Moon, exceed the sound speed but resisting the immense pressure that occurs only at the deepest point of planet earth. It is one of the bright examples of how watches creped out of from vest pockets and onto wrists to become instruments capable of performing in countless scientific dives and special military actions. Rolex Oyster was truly the first properly waterproof watch verified by Gleitze swimming adventure and the time spent on the watch in fish tanks full of water. However, she wore the watch on a necklace rather than on her wrist, and the watch was not subjected to the brutal forces of splashing into the water with arms motion. The aqua-lung from Emile Gagnan was the first open circuit breathing apparatus that helped divers to reach up to the depths of 180 feet (60 meters) without any direct connection with the surface. The most important result was that it aided rapid developments in the fields of scientific, professional and hobby diving and making them easily available around the world. After World War ll, warfare and popularity of diving more durable and refined accessories were in demand, items like compasses, depth meters and above all, wristwatches. In different ways, many brands claim to be the first in this field.
The main changes were still there with proper sealing of crown and the case and making the watch more readable when used under water. Florentine Officine Panerai was one of the first and certainly the most remarkable brands. Panerai supplied distributed the Regia Marina with apparatus designed especially for them that included watches, depth meters, and other gear. Panerai combined with Rolex who supplied movements and cases to the brand. The Italian marines were in need of watch that could be used during combats and also underwater missions. The triple-combination of Rolex, Panerai, and the Italian marines made some significant and interesting developments in both legibility and water resistance.
Radium was another exceptional material invented by Pierre and Maria Curie in 1898. In 1915, Panerai patented the method that permitted the covering dials and hand of watches with this famous luminescent material. Panerai generated a mixture of the mesothelium, radium bromide, and phosphorous zinc sulfide all contained in glass tubes. This was the way in which material could be applied and would also glow constantly and heavily. The large prominent text of Radiomir on Panerai watch dials stood for this fabulous material. It was revealed after decades that it had various seriously dangerous properties: in the making, primarily women painted the dials and hand with Radium. These women didn’t know anything about the intense danger of this material. In the 50s, the Radium was officially banned but remained in use of watch repairmen and also watches manufactured for military use.
The creating of special “bridge” was another major advancement towards waterproofing of early Panerai watches which then became the brand’s trademark element. Though it was debuted in 1943 Panerai used it much latterly in 1956. It was designed to confine the crown in a fixed position and to ensure the strong and constant bond between the crown seals. It also allowed the crown to wind the movement even in secured position safely. Due to such advancements, the watch water resistance slowly reached from 60 to 80 meter and even to 200 meters. Panerai led the way in improved legibility and water resistance to the diving watches we have today.
Bob Maloubier was the first man that sketched the drawing of the wristwatch which he and his team considered to be the perfect for their needs and started looking for Watch Company to build it for them. After refusing many, they suddenly met Blancpain, an unknown Swiss watch maker that realized Bob’s plan and created an iconic watch know known as Fifty Fathoms. The first real diving watch was not Rolex Submariner but Fifty Fathoms from 1953. The watch has preceded the modern ISO 6425 standard which defines the attribute of the modern diver’s watch. It was FF that initially comprised almost all technical solutions that enabled watches to be used for hobby and professional dives alike. French elite frogmen were looking for such type of watch with perfect diver’s time measurement, ideal legibility under all circumstances and a solid construction to ensure extraordinary reliability. In most cases, the problem was not achieving any one of the factors mentioned above but to achieve all of them at once. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms had all these features to fulfill the needs of Bob Maloubier and his team.
The concept of the rotating bezel is familiar nowadays, but Fifty Fathoms included it for the first time. Fifty Fathoms has been produced in different variants over the years but “no rad” is the most interesting piece of all. The prominent No Radiation symbol is present at the 6 o’clock position of the dial. Blancpain used this No Radiation emblem to attract non-military buyers and ensure them that there is not the radioactive material used in it. The first full life cycle of FF lasted for 27 years, and the brand was temporarily shut down in 1980. Jean-Claude Biver purchased it three years later and restarted the company. In 1997 they reconstructed the Fifty Fathoms and modified into an extraordinary luxury diver.
In 1954, Rolex introduced a wristwatch which is the most popular and imitated timepiece ever: the Rolex Submariner. The model has been developed in some watches over the years; it has reversed its highly constructed dial and bezel with beautiful and unique shaped three linked stainless tell bracelet. Rolex Deep Sea defeated the incredible depths of the deepest points of planet earth. In 1960, the story of this legendary watch began in 1960. On 23rd January 1960 Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh were the first to explore the deepest point on Earth: Mariana-trench bottom about 35,800 feet. Deep Sea Special was attached outside the special submersible. After conquering the deepest point, the experiments were not terminated. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) the French Commercial diving firm and U.S Navy had been working together on projects to develop ways to human life on the floor of the ocean. The COMEX divers working at deep depths were breathing a mixture of helium and oxygen which allows them to stay for a maximum time without coming up to the surface to decompress (remember we are talking about several days). Helium created a problem here due to its smallest size it could infiltrate the most tightly sealed water case and build up internally. AS the divers headed to the surface, the helium gas inside the watches expanded to increase the pressure inside the watch and finding a way out with increasing power. Two firms Rolex and Doxa both worked quickly to tackle this challenge.
However, it is not officially confirmed that both these companies co-operated to develop the solution. Rolex and Doxa both claimed their watches to be equipped for the first time with the best solution to the problem which is known as “helium release valve.” The one-way valve set at the 9 o’clock position of the watch case allowing helium gas to escape from the valve leaving the crystal and all components complete. Though most people still credit the gas valve invention to Rolex in 1969, it was Doxa who patented the design. The achievements of Doxa are mostly disregarded as the brand went under in the 1970s. The very first watch was released by Doxa with helium release valve in 1969 called the Sub 300T Conquistador. The watch featured a unique uni-directional with HRV and no-decompression table. It was developed in collaboration with US Divers company and used to help divers determine the longest time spend in the water. The professional divers liked it so much the United States Divers Company started marketing the orange dial Doxa as “The US Divers Doxa.”
After 52 years on 26th March 2012, the popular director James Cameron traveled to visit the earth’s deepest point. Rolex was late to the party because they joined the initiative only five weeks before the adventure. They had very time to design, test and create another modern watch to accompany Cameron and to withstand the immense challenging conditions. A modern version of Deepsea was released after four years of its release. The Deepsea Challenge was equipped with 1.5 centimeters thick sapphire crystal fitted to 51.4 mm wide and 28.5 mm thick case. The watch offered a 12000 meters water resistance. The watch was strapped to the robotic arm of the Deepsea Challenger, and at a depth of 10,908 meters, the watch spends more than three hours perfectly. Now we are familiar with extreme depths, so let’s finish this article with more widely available dive wristwatches available today. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with ISO 6425 standard defining the true diving watch. Produced in 1969, the watch defines a dive watch designed to withstand diving in water at 100m depth. It also requires features like remaining legible in the dark, an indication of time, watch running indication, setting time and end-of-life indication in battery powered case.
Compare the tests of waterproof watches and dive watches to understand it in the best way. Everyday watches are immersed for one hour at a depth of 10 centimeters and dive watches at a depth of 20 centimeters for fifty hours. The test is performed to check the quality of seals. Normal watches are tested for once whereas dive watches are tested both before and after the immersion test for consideration because watches are heated up to 45 degree Celsius along with a drop of water is placed on a watch crystal. After a minute or so, the drop of water is removed and the timepiece as to remain dry from inside which means that if consideration is visible on the inner side of the crystal, then the watch has failed the test. Overpressure test is performed after this in which normal watches are exposed to their rated pressure for ten minutes whereas dive watch is immersed into water and then within one minute are subjected to 125% of its subjected pressure and be held under such pressure for almost two hours. The watch is not removed after two hours but held at 0.3 bars for one more hour. No consideration or intrusion of water is acceptable in this test too. The crown and other setting devices also go through same over-pressure tests separately for one ten minutes only. At last, the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields is tested in which watch is exposed to 3 expositions to direct current magnetic field of 4,800 A/m. The watch has to keep accuracy for 30 seconds as measured by the test. There are many notable dive watches available that are enjoying an iconic status rightfully. Whether you use it in aboveground life or expose them to challenging depths, the dive watches always serve you as most stylish and reliable companion.
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